Handloom Industry

Introduction

Hand weaving formed a part of socio-cultural tradition of the peoples of Manipur which has a rich cultural heritage. Handloom industry in the State, which has a legacy of unrivalled craftsmanship, is spread throughout the length and breadth of the State. It is a household cottage industry with decentralized set-up. In terms of employment generation, it is next only to agriculture for the womenfolk of the State. The traditional skill of handloom weaving is not only a status symbol for the women-folk, but it is an indispensable aspect of socio-economic life in Manipur. 

The National Handloom Census, 1995-96 reported that Manipur has 4.62 lakh handloom workers (4.25 lakh weavers, 0.29 preparatory, 7,488 dyers & hired which is 2nd position among the top States of the country, 2.81 lakh looms which is 4th position among top States, consuming 12.196 lakh Kg. of yarn per month which is 7th position among top States and produced 96.07 lakh meters of handloom fabrics which is also 7th among top States of the country. About 70% of the total weavers are outside the Co-operative fold and the remaining 30% are under Co-operative fold and. Therefore, a large number of weavers are self earners.

n 2011-12, the Department of Commerce & Industries is envisaged to further broaden and intensify the development of the handloom industry and safe guard the health care of the weavers with impregnation of additional components of the existing programmes/projects while, at the same time, providing adequate funds for State share contribution required to be implemented in the Centrally Sponsored Schemes of the Ministry of Textiles.

Thrust Area for the year 2011-12:

(i)         Health care of Weavers:

About 100% weavers are women who have generally been ignored in their health, perhaps, in most cases and instances. The Govt. of India has given more emphasis on this scheme for safeguarding the health of the weavers. The annual target for enrolment of the weavers under the scheme has gradually increased to 50, 000. Thus, the contribution of State share has to be taken care of.

(ii)        Life Insurance & Education:

Most of the weavers are the bread earner of the family. Thus, the life of the weaver is too important for weaver family. The Govt. of India introduced the Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana which is implemented through the LIC of India to provide enhanced insurance cover to the handloom weavers in the case of natural as well as accidental death and in cases of total or partial disability and also scholarship to the children of parents who are covered under the scheme. Thus, it is important to make necessary awareness, publicity, supervision, monitoring in all the procedures right from the enrolment to the settlement of claims so that the weavers and their family are not suffered unnecessary.

(iii)       Handloom Development:

In view of the growing competitiveness in the textile industry both in the national and international markets, a growing need has been felt for adopting a focused yet flexible and holistic Cluster Approach in the sector to facilitate handloom weavers to meet the challenges of a globalize environment. Thus, it is to focus on formation of handloom weavers’ groups as a visible production group in a selected Handloom Clusters for becoming self –sustainable.

(iv)      Market Promotion:

Merchandising and Marketing have been recognized as being central to the growth and development of the handloom industry. Domestic marketing is important for providing linkage between the producer and the consumer to promote for marketing and sales of handloom products both inside and outside State. Therefore, strengthening of State Level Handloom Organizations for improvement in the Marketing & Export of handloom items, organization festive fairs, exhibitions, etc would facilitate in the promotion of marketing of handloom products. 

Fabrics of Manipur

Changkhom (128 cm x 212 cm2):

It is a shawl of Tangkhul tribe of Manipur. The Tangkhul have broadly eleven kinds of hand woven cloths. In most cases, these cloths have woven on Loin Loom (an indigenous looms). It is now gradually converting to produce on frame loom also. It is used by both men and women. These cloths exhibit ubiquitous characteristics. In most of Tangkhul cloth, Red colour has a major portion which is complemented by a little white and black.  These cloths have now been diversified to many other products, like, wall hanging, cushion cover, curtain. These cloths produced both mercerized and acrylic yarn of 2/32s, 2/34s.

Raivat Kachon (125 x 230 cm2):

It is also a shawl of Tangkhul tribe of Manipur. It is among the eleven kinds of hand woven cloths of their tribe. The cloth has been woven on Loin Loom with acrylic yarn both in warp and weft. The motifs of animals, insects have been are hand embroidered. It is now gradually converting to produce on frame loom also. It is generally used by women. This cloth also exhibit ubiquitous characteristics.  This cloth has now been diversified to many other purposes. It is woven with mercerized or acrylic yarn of 2/32s, 2/34s.

Mareipan (102 x 203 cm2):

It is a shawl of Kabui tribe of Manipur. The Kabui has broadly fourteen kinds of hand woven cloths. Of these, seven are used by men and the remaining seven by women. In most cases, these cloths have woven on Loin Loom. It is now gradually converting to produce on frame loom also. These cloths has intricate hand woven extra weft designs on the border. In most of Kabui cloth, white colour has a major portion which is complemented by a little red and black.  These cloths have now been diversified to many other products. These cloths produced both mercerized and acrylic yarn of 2/32s, 2/34s.

Pheingao (125 x 230 cm2):

It is a shawl of Kabui tribe of Manipur. It is used both by men and women. In most cases, these cloths have woven on Loin Loom. It is now gradually converting to produce on frame loom also. These cloths has intricate hand woven extra weft designs on the border. In most of Kabui cloth, white colour has a major portion which is complemented by a little red and black.  These cloths have now been diversified to many other products. These cloths produced both mercerized and acrylic yarn of 2/32s, 2/34s.

Cotton Sari (130 x 550 cm2):

Sari in Manipur is the quintessential female garment. It is woven with 100% cotton with 100s. In most cases, cotton sari is woven on throw shuttle looms. In Manipur, Designs of saris are of a mixture of hill tribal textiles and that of floral designs, etc. In most cases, designs have been woven with traditional temple design in border and floral in cross border. Saris are diversified to many other products and purposes including curtain.

Silk sari (130 x 550 cm2):

It is woven with 100% silk (Eri) with 20/22 Denier. In most cases, silk saris are woven on both throw and fly shuttle looms. Designs of saris are of a mixture of hill tribal textiles and that of floral designs, etc. In most cases, designs have been woven with traditional temple design in border and floral in cross border. Saris are diversified to many other products and purposes including curtain.

Haopheisoi (sarong) (126 x 188 cm2):

It is a diversified Hand Woven fabric on fly shuttle loom. It is woven with mercerized and acrylic yarn of 2/32s, 2/34sdeveloped by Kabui community under Deen Dayal Hathkargha Protsahan Yojana.  Border and longitunal warp designs are traditional motifs with new colour warp and traditional knotting